I have a dream. I wanted to walk on the water like St. Peter did and touch the vertical surface of water wall like Moses did with the divided Red Sea. That is merely a fantasy. The closest reality I can think of is like this:
Gliding on the water with a surf board and touching the inner surface of a closing wave.
YES you got it. One of my dreams is to be a surfer.
“Dare to dream big”, most motivators will say. But I was still worried due to my poor swimming skill. What if I got swallowed by the giant wave like above? What if I got stranded on a nearby island with Komodo dragon scavenging the coastline? Although I am a bit high in cholesterol but I think the lizard don’t mind at all.
When opportunity present itself, I just made up my mind that I will try it. Come on, I am a Penangnite. I live in such proximity to the ocean. How can I be afraid to conquer the sea? Whatmore the beautiful Kuta beach in Bali looks so inviting.
I got myself a surfing instructor. His name is Vez. Looks like a typical beach boy with severely tanned skin. I don’t quite believe that he is a local Balinese, especially when his hair is golden and curly. Facial features also mismatches. A friend of mine commented he doesn’t look real. What is he thinking at the moment of snapshot?
Learning process was not without pain. A few ups and a lot more downs. Most exhausting part is to go against the wave to reach the middle of the ocean to start surfing. Felt a bit regret that I didn’t master freestyle swimming during childhood. Paddling the water with my hands didn’t propel me forward much while other surfers can move forward with ease.
As the big wave approached, my instructed shouted, “Paddle, go!”.
From a lying position on the surf board, I pushed my body up and got my feet on the board. It felt superb to be sliding forward. I then realized my feet was on the wrong position, the feeling of instability hiked, and I knew it is just a matter of time…
How embarrassing… and once again the experience reconfirmed that sea water is salty. After a few trials, I was very pleased to surf smoothly to the shore.
Oh~ Heaven! I am going to do it again!
